This is a cool toy, the fact that it has a phase locked loop and can be tuned anywhere in the FM band with a big radio station sound. The question is how about the battery life and how far will it transmit? They claim it lasts up to 10 hours so when putting in a new set of AAA batteries the current reads about milliamps then as the batteries drain, goes up to maybe milliamps then quits. This is because the voltage is stepped up and regulated to 4. Does anyone want to verify this?
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I have the black Tunecast 2 with the digital station id display. Can anyone help by explaining the best way to bypass the attenuator and if I will see a bigger difference in range vs. If you solder the wire to the point before the attenuator, it does make a pretty big difference. I am getting at least ft, with thh tunecast in the basement and me outside. If you have more questions after looking at the instructible, let me know. That cleared it all up for me. I have seen several ways and I was just confused.
I know what I will be doing tomorrow : Thanks again! I have the adapter to power from a car, so I figure it has to be possible. I guess my thinking is that I am already going to be running two powers supplys to run 5 v and 12 v to various things grinch, Ren 16, MR16s, etc , just wanted to see if there was a way to avoid having something else plugged into a wall.
MarkL , PM The car adapter is just feeding 12v into the tunecast. Might want to check for a 5 volt regulator chip first. Sly , PM As far as I know the tunecast has a regulator in it. So you can hook it up to the 5v or 12v power from the pc. MarkL , PM Not sure if the 12 volt car adapter is regulated inside the actual cigarette lighter plug in or not Voltage check when plugged into the car and resistance check both indicated that it was passing straight through.
Just plug it int the disk drive connector. Cabbage , PM I soldered a thin wire to the "inside" end the one not near the edge of the attenuator rather than shorting it, and it worked for me. What did you do with the other end? That wire comes out of the hole in the case, and is used to broadcast the signal. The higher up it is, the better. If you meant the inside end of the attenuator, than I did nothing to that side. The wire before the attenuator, means that nothing is passed thru it..
Does that answer your question? If not, post more and I will try to help. Cabbage , PM Been a while since I did this, but I think the thin wire that is attached is the one that is the new antenna. I think so. Its just every how to that I see about this has a lot more soldering than they talk about in the write up. SO what you are saying is that you attached the antenna wire to the outside of the attenuator, or a differant spot. PS Thanks for the help! Only soldered a new wire to the Tunecast before by before I mean before the signal reaches the attenuator.
Just a piece of CAT5e cable cut to length for the wire. I also removed the old antenna wire, as the instructable says to do. I did not add the screw and antenna they talk about in there, or make any of the boards that you will see referenced in various places. Just remove one wire and add another longer one is a slightly different spot. Seems to be working well so far. I do power it with 12v DC, since some people have noted that does make a difference. Welcome to DIYC. Works great. Power was from a 12vdc ma wall-wart.
Without a doubt, the 12vdc power contributed greatly to the range. I was wanting to do this as well, but was unable to find a good example of what people have been doing with their grounds and the coax. Also thank you deplanche I went ahead and just seperated the current antenna and extended it for now and it is working a lot better.
I replaced the 23" ANT wire with a 50ohm coax and bnc connector.
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